Soylent Green Jeans (5.9+)

Location of Climb: Willow Spring
Aspect of Face: North
Time Category: Single Pitch

Intro

This climb is unique to Red Rocks, with sandstone on the lower part of the route that has a look and feel very similar to granite. It reminds me of the climbs on the Glacier Point Apron at Yosemite.

The approach is fairly short, but not entirely obvious. If you are approaching from The Case Face, traverse down and to the right (north) along the top of a rock rib, then down through a bush or two, then continue the traverse directly west around the rock face to a giant pine tree. If you are approaching from the parking area, hike west into the drainage below and to the right of The Case Face, then scramble up to the highest of the large pine trees.

Climb

Follow the right-facing corner up and to the left of a small pine tree with some slings around it. The crack in the corner is thin - this is the crux of the route. Continue up to a triangular roof of softer sandstone, and step right to pull over it. It looks intimidating, but this move goes at about 5.7. There is a good hand-width gear placement just above the roof, which can be placed before the move. The rest of the climb is typical Red Rocks stuff, up the corner above the roof to a gear belay at the top of the crack. This pitch requires a long rope.

The descent is less than obvious, but not difficult. From the top of the climb, walk over to the left (east) and down into a shallow sort-of-gully system. Keep bearing east as you descend, and you'll end up on the rock rib to the right (west) of The Case Face. It's a fairly steep scramble, but the holds are secure.

Gear

Bring lots of very small cams/TCUs to protect the thin crack up to the roof. About 3/4 - 1 inch to protect the roof, than 2 -3 inch pro above the roof. You'll need a 60-meter rope.