Tonto (5.5/5.7)

Location of Climb: Willow Spring
Aspect of Face: East
Time Category: Single Pitch

Intro

Directly to the left of the Ragged Edges crag is a crescent-shaped, right-facing corner which extends the entire height of the crag. Tonto follows the crack which runs straight up the rock from one tip of the crescent to the other, like a bowstring. To find the Ragged Edges crag, look for the black varnished cliff with an obvious crack system up the middle, located directly above the tree line to the west of the road into the Willow Springs picnic area.

Climb

Tonto climbs a gentle slope up a crack that fades out, followed by pockets and horizontal cracks which will take pro, or flakes which may be slung. As the crack fades, angle to the right and protect several horizontal cracks. Look for flakes to sling towards the top. Moving to the right of the crack system is the 5.5 variation. The 5.7 variation proceeds directly upward from the crack, with the crux move through a small roof/overhang. There is a bomber #1 Camalot placement to the right as you begin to move up into the crux. Face right and work the edge through the crux.

At the top are a few large pine trees which make excellent anchors. One to the left of the end of the climb has several slings that makes for a fun rap over the arch roof.

Gear

Small to mid-size nuts and cams.